A travel to Marinduque during the lull season

Anyone can still enjoy Marinduque even though it is not Holy Week. In fact, it is even better to plan a trip to the island in times when tourists are less. Because that means more me-time to some attractions that this island has to offer.

A wall art at The Boac Hotel.

For my 28th birthday, I planned for a birthday getaway in an island located in south-western Luzon - Marinduque. 

It was supposedly a trip for two but a friend of mine bailed out for personal reasons. Despite the loss of companion, I went on with it, besides, the trip had been long overdue already. Two years ago, I planned the same with another friend but, unfortunately, work got in the way so I wasn't able to go.

Why Marinduque?

I’m always excited about places off the beaten path. The idea that I can exclusively indulge in the beauty of a place and soak in solitude - is just true happiness. Because I travel for peace of mind, solo traveling is never for the sake of being heroic but for my own emotional and spiritual fulfillment.

Marinduque fits such retreat-like adventure that I always seek. All year round except on Holy Week, tourists are few. It is during lull season when prices are cheap, from accommodation to boat fare and food. This is what I consider the best time for exploring the place. 

The Moriones Festival, which is done every Lenten Season, is the only time the province is filled with non-islanders, mostly Catholic devotees. Many love the festive-vibe but I’m not really up for it.

Morion means helmet.  It is a type of military helmet used by soldiers during the 16th-17th centuries.
Above are the face masks worn by Roman soldiers in the re-enactment of the march in look for Saint Longinus, which is part of the story of Passion of the Christ.And that itself is the annual Moriones Festival held every Holy Week.

Female travelers can also take advantage of the fact that it is the second safest province for traveling, next to Batanes. 

Expectations vs Reality

I didn’t do much research of what to do in Marinduque which is not what I usually do. I'm a praning person eh so I would normally prepare an itinerary which I almost diligently follow lol. So in this travel, “Surprise me” was predominantly what I was set for. I only went as far as knowing places to visit but didn’t look them up online. I mostly relied on a friend’s suggestions and locals’ directions. 

After the almost 9-hour trip by bus and ship, I arrived at around 8 in the evening at The Boac Hotel. My reservation was made in the morning of that same day. The town of Boac sleeps early. Most stores close as early as 7pm and the jeepneys that travel around town is until 4pm. The place that was open at that hour was the Mercury Drugstore which saved my hungry stomach. 

Even the hotel I stayed at was empty as I was the only one who checked in for the night. 

I never thought of the place to have the old Spanish-vibe. It resembles Vigan’s famous historical go-to place, but only bigger and less commercialized. Some ancestral houses are preserved too and certified heritage. 

The town is quite famous for its old cafes owned by locals so I made sure I got to try them. It also prides itself for being a plastic-free province and for being one with no malls at all. The entire province is almost still at its natural state which I hope will remain like that, though empty spaces beacon of future developments. 

Exploring some sites

It was a literal “take me to where it stops” when I hopped on a jeepney which route ends at the Municipality of Buenavista. I initially planned to drop by a farm in Brgy. Cawit that is along the way, but impulsively changed the plan after having thought of the rarity of jeepney transportation should I decide to go back and forth. 

In Buenavista, I was told of the Malbog Sulfur Hotspring not far off. It is one of the few sulfur hot springs in the country. I actually wouldn’t know one had I not visited the province. But a quick search online will show you Mambukal Sulfur Hot Spring found in Negros Occidental. Apart from that, I don’t know of any but I’m sure further research will give you more.

I rented a tricycle to get to the hot spring. The sulfur water, which is proven to be therapeutic for skin diseases, comes from Mt. Malindig. The sulfuric content makes the water smell like a rotten-egg. And a friend told me that the smell sticks to the skin and doesn’t go off for two weeks max. 

Going back to Boac, I made a quick visit to a farm in Cawit named AGREA. It was suppose to be a farm tour but the estate was not at its best at the moment because typhoon ravaged the garden and most of its animal shelters. So, my visit was untimely. The staff of the farm though still accommodated and showed me around. AGREA was founded in 2015 by Ms. Cherrie Atilano, also an alumna of the university where I graduated from. 

Aside from the known sulfur hot spring, Marinduque is also hailed as the country’s Butterfly Capital. I was told that, quite a number of privately owned butterfly gardens are established in some towns. The biggest is found in Gasan but the very first one is in Cawit. I visited the latter owned by the late lepidopterist Romeo Lumawig. Not much is said on how the butterfly curation started in the province but the late Mr. Lumawig has started collecting cocoons and capturing butterflies in1970s. That hobby-turned-into business was then passed on to his children, who now collects and exports butterflies abroad.

The caretaker of the Lumawig Butterfly Garden. 

Now, for an overlooking view of the province, you need to climb the more than 400 steps of Luzon Datum 1911. The historical landmark is the heart of the country's geological reference for international and nationwide mapping.

View from the top of the Luzon Datum of 1911.

Another option is the Sibuyao Viewdeck in Torrejos, which not only provides an overlooking view of the entire province but also the Island of Sibuyao, Romblon at the horizon. The climb is just a bit difficult and long compared to Datum 1911, I was told.

Improvements made

The main roads are already cemented compared to two years ago, my friend told me. And when you get to the Luzon Datum 1911, sheds are built every 2-3 meters and the staircase was already made for an easy climb to the top. You can have some picnic at the top of the hill as well.

Uphill road going to Luzon Datum of 1911. I had to walk because the motorcycle can no longer manage to climb this steep road.

I intentionally didn't visit the beach or go spelunking because I don't think I want to do that at the moment. The entire trip was all about relaxing and unwinding. I spent the most time eating at cafes and walking around town. I also enjoyed checking out clothes at an ukay-ukay near my hotel. It was bliss for having bought three pieces of clothing for only Php40 each.

My tricycle driver around Boac. He gave me a free ride to where the Moriones masks and costumes were made.
He said that I deserve to see them since it was my first in the province.

At night, I sleep early which is what I needed the past months. The room was like a safe space, void of unnecessary noise which I took advantage of by spending a considerable amount of time writing on my journal.